Open door

Old Phra Athit Pier

While other major cities smother precious water frontage with high-rises and overpriced al fresco eateries, Bangkok looks inward, leaving its riverbanks lined with old shophouses, shantytowns on stilts, and a smattering of posh hotels and wats. But owner (slash kung fu master) Farn Sritrairatana and his family are fighting to change this. The Chao Praya Express boats, the Patravadi Theater and adjoining restaurant, not to mention a few recently opened ventures: they all belong to him or his family. Old Phra Athit Pier is the latest addition to this budding riverside empire. The open-air restaurant seems to have been sitting at the edge of the river forever-it hasn’t. To create an authentic weatherworn look, the designer pulled a Jim Thompson and assembled the eatery from parts of old Thai buildings and homes from across the country. The wide-plank

Dark wood floors are broken in, the furniture feels comfort-ably used, and the powerful old fans enhance river breezes. Old Phra Athit Pier draws a Lunch crowd from neighboring offices (Khao kaeng is available at B25.) and a steady stream of tourists. Classic Thai dishes make up the menu. Red Curry Duck (B140) delivers tender duck in a milky curry sauce with grapes and pineapple in lieu of standard vegetables. Succulent grilled pork with toast and peanut curry sauce (B150) will thrill you, too, along with the other salads, rice and noodle dishes priced between B95-180. Although our visit was a daytime excursion, we scoped out the joint and determined the breezy setting ideal for a nighttime summer cocktail session with friends. –Brooke Pearson.

Old Phra Athit Pier. 23 Phra Athit Rd., 02-282-9202. Open daily 11am-midinght.